update: 5/25/22 just installed today...installing the cobb tuning engine tune soon

[92683]

so i have mapped out the plan to get the car faster. i have decided to do the downpipe first and then do the map install a little shortly later.

i have been holding off till all the bugs are out of the car and the warranty has been fully exhausted.

im excited to get this thing faster. today a v6 tacoma was able to keep up or even overtake me from a light. it might be tuned as i believe they are around 276hp.
so i need to get this at a higher level. im hoping to get it into the 340whp if possible with a dp.

 

[92683]

i recently did the downpipe.

i have not had a chance to really drive it too much without the map installed yet but i wanted to see more if the dp does much alone. even a little would be a good test. i still have the accessport ready to install at any time at home. day or night.

the dp was a pain to install on the floor, even with some prep work. i think without the prep work it would have been nearly impossible for me to do it with floor jacks.

the prep work i did was i had a muffler shop cut the oem pipe in half and reconnect with a joint sleeve to drive around in. this made the stock dp much easier to maneuver while i was on the ground. and even with that, it was pretty hard.

at this point, i have the dp on and i kept the stock exhaust. sounds fine just need to get to the new sound. most people complain about how loud it is. its not a huge amount more but the tone of the sound is a huge difference. also you making a semi-luxury car more aggressive and the shock of the new louder changed tone makes it harder to handle for most. i totally get that complaint. i think it needs a few more months of driving it around to see if its something that is too much or not. as stock it wasn't even loud. on these cars we can also add in the oem mid-muffler which should change the tone and loudness as well.

i used a j-spacer to make sure i dont get a check engine light -cel. so far after a month it has not shown up.

 

[92683]

after about a few hundred miles, i got the cel. this is with the j-pipe extender.

so after deciding what to do next i went ahead and installed the cobb accessport ecu maps today.
i can feel the car running much stronger. im taking it easy for right now. not pushing it hard.

with the downpipe, i noticed that the idle sound is a little quieter. its not as noisy as before which is a good thing for idle and start up.

this is the map description i used to install for the first time.
https://cobbtuning.atlassian.net/wiki/spaces/PRS/pages/1153335315/Audi+S3+8V+2015-2018

 

[92683]

its been a few days now and i feel that the car runs like stock again but one difference. its got much more punch on the upper range. usually, the car will start to fade off as i keep the accelerator down to the floor, but no more. it will keep going and i can feel it for sure. i have yet to run anyone but i now can. might have a fighting chance this time if i go against someone.

if you do it as a daily driver, its very normal and composed. nothing that would indicate your car has almost another ~100 hp / ~100tq added to your drivetrain. if you feather it and drive conservatively its very normal and drives like it was before.

with the accessport, i can switch maps to anything at any time i like. i might even get a protune to get even more out of it. just thinking ill need to upgrade a few more things before i do though.

my final verdict. worth the cost. very safe ots maps and very easy to use. also very easy to live with.

 

[92683]

a few days later i got a check engine light. cel/mil.
i scanned it with vcds. came up with 18933

it happened when engine braking. not during acceleration. that's the key to diagnosing this symptom.
the issue is that the secondary o2 sensor is sensing extra air. this code means new air is coming in or sucked in. it can be anything such as hoses, PVC, etc. but i didn't touch any of those things while doing this downpipe install.

so the next logical thing is the downpipe is the issue. what i didn't do was replace the o-ring gasket at the turbo and the dp connection.
i just replaced it and nothing within the past couple of days.

part number is 5Q0253115B
very easy to fix. just open the connection with the hex key and pull apart while the engine is cold.
the gasket is deep in there since its crushed at this point. always change this out when doing the dp change or anytime you open it. its a one time crush.
part is about $10 at the dealership don't get aftermarket.



here is what it looks like.
it feels like cardboard paper glued together. its is very flaky and stiff but can break apart easily. so i would recommend handling it rough with the new one.

 

[LllLionHeartxx]

Hello! I'm a new s3 owner and it's posts and updates like yours that will help me and others. Plz keep updating even with the lack of replies, I'm sure many are interested in what you're doing. Keep it up bro!

And how's the accessport holding up? Pat pics of updates plz!!

Cheers 🍻

 

[92683]

oh cool. thanks for the reply.
i didn't think anyone cared so i didn't take pics of any of this.

so, for the next update.
i have the check engine light up. - cel
scanned and it says im lean bank 2 o2 sensor.
even with the J-pipe and adjusting for different orientations, it wont go away. so i plan to get it dyno-pro-tuned. *d-p-t.
remember, cobb ap allows us to dyno tune our cars individually with less hassle. other brands, well your kinda stuck or have a really long run around to get things sorted out with going back and forth. also without a dyno tune of your car, the new maps are just not as linear. its a beautiful thing.
with the cel, its not because of the ots maps, but that i have a downpipe that it isn't mapped for. so, don't blame cobb for my cel.

it just is leaning out no matter what. this is actually an experiment im attempting before i do a d-p-t.
doing a dyno tune is the only real way to get it to run right and optimally.

i have called around and plan on tuning it at a local shop. cant wait. e-tune for me.
im sure ill get even more power but power is not my main goal. im really aiming for a more linear feel as it will be dialed more for my car and not tuned on a car hundreds of miles away as over-the-shelf -ots, maps are. *most people don't get this odd ball concept when they buy flashes like APR and other brands.

off topic for a moment:
the car is coming together and i still haven't even lowered it yet. I am installing some new rear updated components but that's on a different thread. this topic is with my rear toe link and control arms by verkline. all metal with no rubber joints.

also recently i got a coolant leak that im taking care of right now. i replaced the water pump and thermostat, and gear belt. it still leaks. apparently its not coming from that. i couldn't tell as the mess the leak creates makes it hard to pin point.
after that installation, i did finally clean the whole engine area.

then, i finally saw exactly where its coming from. its the Y-pipe that has three hoses linked to it. im not 100% sure if its the pipe only or the hoses as well. so i all of them will be replaced. its not that hard to get to once your there. also i would assume its going to be good for another 3 years or so. to me, it just makes sense to replace all the hose components. the dealership sells it as a whole kit anyways.

the new updated part for the well-known leaking thermostat cover just got a new number about 2 weeks ago. lucky me. version "P".
so if you get version "M" then your getting the old one.

anyways. the leak may have happened because of the new extra boost the cobb a/p introduced. to me im happy it did as i have time now to do it. all this did was show where the weak points are on the car now, rather than later when im not ready for it.

also worked halfway on the rear subwoofer mod. im sure many of you guys are interested in seeing that little gem come together. with the leak and other projects, i couldn't finish the subwoofer mod. its gonna be on the back burner for a while. with the test fit it does look amazing.

 

[DirtyBankS3]

Happy to see there is one active user here.. lol
I just installed my turbo inlet pipe and currently looking into the COBB access port. It's been a long 3 weeks driving stock lmao!!

Glad to see your build is coming along
hopefully, the pro Tune takes off the Downpipe code.
If not ask the Tuner if they can simply disable that code for you.

 

[92683]

update 5.25.2022

i have been doing remote tuning as that's the only way with the new state laws and such.

its much better than the stage 2 over the shelf maps from cobb and its tailored to my car. with my preference. im opting in this order:
1. fuel. keeping it at stoich and more power up top. (so this is not balls out power). this way i get really good mpg and still fun power. im still noticing its more power than stage 2 on entire band curve.
2. power. more is always good but i don't need it maxed out as mpg is important now adays.

i am not disappointed with the extra power and even better mpg now. i was below 19mpg avg. now im averaging in the high 20's to low 30's mpg.

with data logging it, i noticed that i get knock above 6200rpm. i know that its coming from carbon deposits on the valves. if clean that out it will allow more power.

any future upgrades for additional power, i would do and suggest doing a larger intercooler, two side coolers from csf, and a larger radiator. it will allow for more boost as it will reduce pre-ignition. here is a link video for the csf units. i haven't found an intercooler brand yet as my requirements would be a little stricter and would require time to research. im not in the ballpark to move into these yet but that probably would be my next move.
video link:

csf:
- radiator
- DSG cooler pair (left and right side)

haven't decided on the intercooler yet.
- intercooler upgrade


when all these items are done, increasing boost is possible which in turn will allow more timing. i assume i should net an addition 10-30whp from where im at now. these are power levels i should feel and notice. these would be safe numbers.