about to sound deaden the rear ears with stinger roadkill expert mat

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hey guys i just picked up some sound deadening product.

product:
stinger roadkill, expert mat
https://stingerelectronics.com/collections/sound-damping-roadkill/products/roadkill-expert-bulk-pack

ill be installing it, starting tomorrow. it should take a while to prep and install. the time depends on how much i plan on doing. so far i do want to do the rear upper deck and the bottom of the trunk area.
not only does it reduce vibration and road noise, it does say it reduces heat. so during the summer i always notice my trunk gets very warm. i attribute it the thin metal but also the exaust is right under it as well. so i plan on removing all the item in the trunk and coving as much as i can.

process:
remove all panels and anything wiring that's there.

clean it thoroughly. using different comicals and making sure it dries completely or the material may not bond properly

measure the areas with a plastic trash bag.
cut it to the proper shape.


rule of thumb is that there is a diminishing return on this. you don't need to cover 100% of the entire trunk. the common percentage is 25% coverage is usually the sweet spot is. anything additional, there will be a diminishing return effect. but since im looking to remove heat transfer ill do my best to get the entire trunk done.

 

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i have had the rear deck open for about a year now. just have not had time to do anything.
with measurements the hole is not a perfect circle. at the smallest diameter it is about 7.5inches. so an 8.0inch subwoofer will fit. but with some cutting and molesting the hole, you can make a 10inch subwoofer fit as well. i personally am trying to keep the car in original form. i don't think ill be cutting it open more to make it a 10 inch. i know the added diameter will be worth it but im not really into cutting at this point. maybe down the road. that way it will give me another reason to upgrade again. lolz

 

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this is the product ill be doing this week.
forgot to get a roller for the install.
ill be cleaning it out very thoroughly. if its not, the boding is not going to workout well. and there will be a reduction of effectiveness. it needs to bond to the surface perfectly in all areas it touches to make it work right.

 

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just took out most of the rear liners and bit and pieces.

after this, ill need to clean it up. before a full treatment.

 

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just finished the trunk.
here is a photo of the roller tool i used.


tomorrow will be the rear deck. to much work to finish in a day both sections. lolz

i hope you guys likey.

 

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one of the things i noticed about the tire well, it is super hollow. it really needs this process.
since im in southern cali, the heat is really strong during the summer.
when i leave something in the trunk i noticed that it gets really warm. so if its groceries, it will spoil the food fast before i get home during the summer drive. this product is supposed to make another barrier for any heat transfers. whats weird is that the bottom of the trunks must be really hot. because between that tire well, is the tire, then some foam, then carpet. and the trunk can still get warm. i feel its partly the exhaust heating up the bottom of the trunk.

so ill give a report back with our expected heat wave for this summer.

 

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here is the door. just finishing up the passenger door. the idea with the door is that i didnt want to cover up the screw holes are at. and i plan on doing a bracket to upgrade the speakers down the road. so didn't care to do those as of now. they will be more covered once i upgrade. but the usual rule of thumb is, 25% is the key amount to be covered for optimum deadening. anything else will be have a diminishing effect for your efforts. ill see how it sounds after a month of use.

 

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the entire door and rear deck is back together. no other mods are installed.

i can hear the sub sounds much clearer. the bass needed to be turned down now. it actually is overtaking the mids and highs. funny how that is. its not that its louder but that the bass is more defined and doesn't rattle like before.

the car definitely needs a dsp. the stock controllers are not enough.

it appears that the sound deadening installation is worth it. i would say that completely covering all metal areas are not worth the effort.
i would say find the thickest sound-deadening materials for large flat sheet metal surfaces. as they tend to still flex. so for this material i would double up or just get thicker versions on the larger flat sheet meal areas. don't attempt to use thicker materials in small areas as it nets your less, if anything at all. use this thickness around smaller areas as you can cut and shape it easier.

i noticed that after a while of doing the install, i didn't even care how it looked when i installed it. you cant even see it now when the all the parts are back into the car. so don't worry if it looks crappy when you do the work. i did the entire truck floor because of sound but also for heat rejection. it gets super hot in the trunk during summer even with short drives. the floor of the carpeted truck feels hot. so groceries can get spoiled before coming home.

advice:
don't over do it. just cover thin metal sheet areas. don't worry about looks as you wont see it in the end.
use the idea, less is more with this project.
the sound will change for the better but not as dramatic as you might be led to believe.
...oh did i mention heat rejection as a benefit

worth doing nonetheless...